jangmi

Holy typhoon! What a wild storm. I went out a little earlier today, anticipating that it might be my last chance before having to stay in all night, as "Jangmi" was supposed to hit northern Taiwan this afternoon. It's a category 4 (on the hurricane scale, which goes up to 5)! It really wasn't too bad while I went out. It was windy and spitting rain, but I didn't even use my umbrella as I walked to the bus stop. A small boy whizzed past me on a big bicycle, in shorts and bare feet, soaked to his little bones. He smiled at me and called "Hallo!" I smiled back, delighted by his carefree spirit.

I went downtown and picked up some things at the bookstore and then got some coffee from Starbuck's to bring home. I asked the girls working if they would close soon. They said "maybe" and one added, "But we're always open. 'Always Open, Starbuck's'!" (That's the slogan for 7-11; everyone knows the jingle "Always Open, 7-11!" Taking the bus back home, the storm started to pick up. I only had to walk a few blocks after getting off, but they were treacherous! My heavy-duty umbrella caught the wind and yanked my arm along with it, flipping inside out and threatening to haul me off like a kite. The rain was blowing sideways by now, so there was no point in using the umbrella anyway, and I wasn't about to lose my latte (in my other hand) over a silly umbrella. I found a sheltered corner and closed up the umbrella, tucking it under my arm. Then I made a dash for home--totally drenched and feeling awfully light on my feet (about to blow away?) By the time I got in to my building, I was giggling. It was exhilirating! I remembered how I love rain, and storms. Their strength; the way they remind us of how small we are. How they change our plans and show us that we're not in control. How they give us pause--time for waiting, reflecting, surrender--before it passes and we charge back to our routines and to-do lists.

Now I'm holed up in my cozy room with my latte and a few National Geographics. I'm burning candles and listening to Nina Simone, her husky voice harmonizing with the howling wind outside. My plans for the rest of the day are simple--cleaning, laundry, baking sweet potatoes, yoga, writing letters. Much less ambitious than my pre-typhoon plans of traveling to the East coast or museum-hopping in Taipei, but I don't mind. This is a good way to spend a Sunday afternoon, too.

For all you weather-buffs, check out: http://www.cwb.gov.tw/V6e/index.htm and click on "Typhoon Warning" on the left. Then choose the "potential track area" option and click "Animate." (I live in northwest Taiwan) I will try to get some pictures from my balcony in a bit--I'm charging my camera battery at the moment!

Teacher's Day

Today is "Teacher's Day" in Taiwan. I got a few cards and even a pen, but I still don't really feel like a teacher. But Happy Teacher's Day to all of the REAL teachers I know--My mom, Mrs. Lomp, Sarah, Jocelyn, Maria (almost)...

I have a one-on-one every Saturday morning with an 8th grade girl. We've been meeting for a few months and it's difficult because she wants to practice conversation, except she doesn't talk. I sort of dread Saturday mornings because it's hard to decide things to do for 90 minutes when I might as well be talking to myself! Anyway, she has recently begun to open up a bit and talk more. Her usual answers to questions are "yes," "no," or "I don't know." AAHHH! But now she talks about school a little bit. I was blown away by her school schedule. Here it is: (remember, she's in 8th grade)

Monday: 7 am-6 pm
Tuesday: 7 am-9 pm
Wednesday: 7 am-5 pm
Thursday: 7 am-9 pm
Friday: 7 am-6 pm
Saturday: 9:30 am-11 (English lesson with me) Plus, six times per semester she has to go to school on Saturdays as well.

How awful! I can't even imagine. So her English lessons were supposed to finish up this month (it was just an 8 week session) and I was kind of looking forward to the end, just because it's so painfully quiet and I have a hard time knowing what to do with her! But... she has decided she wants to continue lessons with me indefinitely. So I guess I will take that as a compliment--that someone who is already in school more than 60 hours/week at age 13 wants to spend her Saturday morning with me. ?!?

Here are some little monkeys I have on Friday nights. From left: Terence (formerly known as "Jerry" but his friends made fun of that name for some reason), Max, and Andy


Terence, Andy, Max, and Jojo in the background. Under the shirt is Sammy, my favorite and the cutest chubby cheeks I've ever seen--sorry you're missin' out!


Teacher's Day cards and a pen. Nancy is a teeny-tiny girl--maybe 7 years old, with a voice like a mouse, so I thought it was precious that she wrote in the card!

needing room to breathe

I've had a bit of a rough week. I've been sick, extra tired, missing the changing of seasons, and slightly on the depressed side. When you get into a mood like that, every little thing that happens that isn't fabulous darkens your day and you snowball toward a meltdown. Thursday I decided I just needed to get out of my routine for a little while and breathe and be thankful to be in Taiwan. It was a windy day--still hot, but the wind is rare and felt good. I walked "the long way" after getting off the bus in Long Tan, taking a little detour by a river that's just a few minutes in the opposite direction of how I walk to school. Here's what I saw...














Sometimes it just takes a few minutes to remind yourself that your life isn't a disaster. Take a different route to work. Feel the sun on your face, the wind on your cheeks. Breathe consciously. Observe creation, the happened and the happening, around you. Talk to God. Love this moment--this moment is your life.

SWFITAPOI

Tonight in one of my classes, we read a lesson called "Tom's Wedding" or something like that. Before we read it, I asked "so, what is 'wedding' in Chinese?" and then I started singing the "Here Comes the Bride" song as a clue. A few of them said the word in Chinese and one boy, Kevin, age 13, burst into giggles. At first I thought he was laughing at me singing--but it wasn't that. We all looked at him, astonished. "Kevin, what?" When he finally regained composure, he gasped, "Teacher... is... SINGLE!" and erupted with fresh hilarity, and this time the whole class joined in. Of course I laughed too--it was funny that they found it funny that I'm not married! I told them that I actually prefer it that way and that they are too young too understand, and that I'm too young for it to even be a big deal! Ah, kids say the darndest things!


(by the way, SWFITAPOI stands for "Single White Female In Taiwan And Proud Of It")

sick!

Last night, Helen and I went for a late night trip to Carrefour (like Super Wal-Mart) to get some birthday gifts for one of our friends. On the way back, we were parked next to this truck at a red light. I quickly dug through my purse for my camera and got a few pictures before the light turned green!

This is desperately sad, but also a little funny. Half the chickens in the flatbed were dead, plucked and pale as ghosts, upside down with their spindly legs sticking up. And the other half were alive and well--caged and awaiting their imminent fate--which was all too clear, considering they had a front row seat to their kinsmen's carcasses. Poor things! I'm glad I'm not eating any meat here.

a random experience per day keeps the blues away

Tonight after work, I went to the gym for a late-night workout. I was informed that I could work out, but no shower--no water, because of a "flood." I don't know what that meant, because the typhoon was last weekend, and everything has been fine all week and no rain.

So after my workout, I left the gym sweaty but feelin' good. I decided to go to a foot massage shop that some of the other teachers recommended to me. They close at midnight, and it was only 11, so I went in and pointed to the "40 minute Foot Massage" listed on the menu.

My masseuse couldn't speak English but another customer could, a little bit, so we chatted and they asked all the usual questions... Where are you from? How old are you? Are you an English teacher? Are you married? What God do you believe in? The masseuse could tell that I had allergies--just from touching my feet! Reflexology is so cool--I must learn more about it! She also could tell that I was a dancer--even though my calves have atrophied quite a bit from when I was dancing every day. Oh, those were the days... when I couldn't zip up my boots! Anyway, the massage was incredible, and only cost $12. I will be going back for more.

When it was over, my masseuse told me that her husband was coming to pick her up and they could drive me close to where I live because they were apparently headed that direction too. The owner, who spoke a little English and who also prays to Jesus, as I'd found out earlier, told me it was no problem and that it would be fine.

So my masseuse and her husband drove me home. She sat with me in the back seat of their car, which smelled of cigarettes and incense, and was pimped out with Buddhist trinkets hanging from the mirror, a clock glued to the dash, and fringed curtains hanging from the windows. Her husband turned on some English tunes.

And this is how I came to find myself "dancing" in the back seat of a car with a Taiwanese reflexologist in her 50's, at midnight, to a crazy, dance-club version of the Supremes' "Can't Take My Eyes Off of You." I sang along, and she tried to sing along, and we both did some half-disco moves and giggled a lot.

Then I was at my "stop." I thanked them and she told me to come back to the shop and ask for her. She pointed to the sleeve of her uniform, "12." I'll definitely go back and will definitely request Masseuse #12. Maybe next time we can get footloose first, and then I can kick off my Sunday shoes!

tainan: moon festival

The day I left... it didn't look so good! Typhoon Sinlaku decided to visit Taiwan for the holiday weekend. http://www.iht.com/articles/ap/2008/09/16/asia/AS-Taiwan-Typhoon.php


The beautiful High Speed Rail station


We still barbecued, as is tradition for Moon Festival, but we had to keep the grill under the garage roof and out of the rain! On the grill you can see some lovely squid slices. :-)



Me and Baba with pomelo skins on our heads. Pomelos are similar to grapefruit and apparently putting them on your heads is another Moon Festival tradition!


And with Mama, whose giggle is contagious.


More fun with pomelos! A paper bowl sculpture made by Jin's brother.

a clear day

I had no idea that there were mountains visible from my balcony until a few days ago! How sad is that?

up and down... and up... and down...

It amazes me how moody I feel here. I try to stay grounded, reminding myself that true peace and happiness do not come from external events, but I feel like I've been riding a roller coaster for four months now... and you all know how I feel about roller coasters. (Or, if you don't, I hate them. Once my friend tried to "cure" me of my phobia by making me ride every roller coaster at Six Flags. It didn't work... it's one of my most terrifying memories!)

Here, when I have a bad day, I feel like I'm in total despair and I want to throw in the towel, pack up my bags and catch the next red-eye home. And when I have a good day, I feel like the luckiest girl in the world and could sing and dance through the streets of Jhongli spreading good cheer (and naturally, avoiding death by scooter).

Today is a good day. I woke up early and went to the gym with my friend/floormate, Amber. I had a great workout and finished up by relaxing in the sauna before showering. I got a few pieces of sushi to go (in honor of Emily, who has just arrived in Japan!) and hopped on the bus to my school. My little kindy-kids were adorable and, while the young classes are exhausting, they also say/do the cutest things and keep me laughing. Then, during my break, I did a little shopping and had a delicious sandwich from my favorite bakery called "Crossroads." They employ women who've escaped abusive situations and people with developmental disabilities--it's awesome. After my evening class I came home and had a lovely late dinner/snack--grilled asparagus, sliced tomato, brie (WOW! found at a ritzy grocery store--cheese is so rare here) and crackers, a plum, cucumber, and a few pieces of dark chocolate. AND I came home to a package from my wonderful friends--Adrienne and her mom, Sue, who was my first yoga student! She sent me Big Sky Granola--my FAVORITE, exclusively from Iowa, some soap and lotion, and Iowan lilac perfume. Ahhhh. See? I'm the luckiest girl in the world!

Last weekend, however, I was not. I went to Tainan for Moon Festival, and it was typhooning all weekend (that's probably not a verb). We were still able to barbecue on Saturday, with the grill just far enough under the garage roof to avoid being rained on. Sunday was the longest day of my life. I'm exaggerating of course, but it was pouring and all day we ate cheesecake and moon cakes (which feature little hidden surprises--like being filled with sugary congealed red beans, or preserved duck egg yolks, and in the worst case scenarios, dried pork fibers) and watched old family videos, of weddings and stuff. And lots of footage of drunk people singing karaoke in Taiwanese. I was restless and feeling culturally frustrated. I don't know how better to explain--but sometimes when I'm with them, I get the sense that I'm an object to be paraded around; shown off. I'm not sure they like me because I'm Elly--or just because I'm different. I feel that I'm being scrutinized and picked apart; a social experiment--not maliciously, but discomforting nonetheless. Also--there are frequent references to me being a "rich American." Not cool. Or true.

I rode the bus home Sunday night. The 3 1/2 hour trip took 6 hours because of the heavy rain and wind. I felt spent, and very alone. And very full of mysterious moon cakes.

So it goes, back and forth. There will be more lows after today's high, but I recover from every meltdown with new strength, having learned something of value about myself or Taiwan; something I can add to my ever-growing file of experiences. In Chinese, "hao" means "good" and "bu hao" means "bad." They say "hao bu hao?" to ask about whether something is good or not--if it's okay or not okay. Every day, there are things I file under hao and things that are definitely BU HAO, but such is life. And I'm thankful for it all.

moon-'phoon festival

This weekend is Moon Festival--a time to be with your family, have a barbecue, and eat moon cakes, from what I've heard. I'm going to Tainan to visit Jin's family again but my plans could be altered by the typhoon that's currently drenching Taiwan. Tonight any classes beginning after 6:30 were canceled... of course, that meant I still had to commute to Long Tan for my 5-6:30. It was almost worth the expensive cab ride, long bus ride home, and ensuing headache. (Note sarcasm) The kids were monkeys tonight! Partly because it's Moon Festival, so they're excited about that; partly because the typhoon was distracting (rain dumping on hundreds of tin roofs is difficult to compete with); partly because I had a substitute co-teacher; and partly because they're always naughty.

Here's a link where you can learn about Moon Festival:

http://chineseculture.about.com/library/weekly/aa093097.htm

And here's a link where you can track the typhoon!

http://www.cwb.gov.tw/V5e/index.htm

After the weekend I'll post my own stories and pictures--both of Moon Festival and the typhoon!

make me smile

I was having a less-than-stellar day until I watched this video. Make sure you watch it in high quality (there's an option below the video box). I love that people are so creative and that the world is so beautiful. I especially loved seeing Chicago and Taipei representing! Enjoy! It's only 4 minutes and may change your life (or at least your afternoon)!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlfKdbWwruY

a few random pictures!

Here are some kids from my Storytelling class...
Twins, Cindy and Sunny, who wear the exact same thing every day, including hair accessories. It's impossible for me to tell them apart!
So proud of their pictures--they drew their favorite scenes from "The Gingerbread Man."
Me with one of my co-teachers, Phoebe, for a night out!
Amanda, me, and Phoebe...
A sculpture in Taipei

Taipei 101... for a skyscraper, I think it's very pretty!
Another sign that made me laugh...
Me with long hair...
And after a trim!! AHHHH!

after almost a third of a year

It's Saturday night and another week has whizzed by me, like a scooter through a green light. Next weekend I will have been here 4 months already! The days and weeks are starting to tumble along so quickly that I fear losing my sense of wonder around this whole experience. And yet, there are still moments every day when it hits me... how far away I am from everything I've ever known and I'm still me. And I know I'm undergoing some kind of metamorphosis, but at the moment I'm too deeply immersed in being; in the collection of present moments that somehow form a day to attempt to recognize what I am becoming. But I'm less concerned about the future than I ever have been, and am filled with trust and peace.

I've had to let up on myself a bit, here, and I think it's probably good for me. I like to create balance in my life, and have control over that balance. I like to work hard and feel purposeful in my work, give time and energy to loving my friends and family, lead a healthy lifestyle--cooking, dancing, practicing yoga, have some time to myself for recharging my energy, etc. But here, it's taken me so long to start to find that balance. Even about a month ago, I still had a lot of trouble sleeping at night and felt too busy to devote time to cooking for myself. I was always hungry and exhausted. I was actually pretty close to throwing in the towel and coming back home to start heading down a different path. But now I'm feeling okay about everything, and about staying here for longer. I had to give myself some time to figure out how I can be me here, even in this dirty, polluted, crowded, confusing suburb.

Everything takes more energy here. I had to recognize and accept that. For some time, I couldn't understand why I felt that I was accomplishing so little from day to day. Now I see that just being was enough. Because I have to take buses and taxis and trains everywhere, everything takes longer. The communication thing is exhausting, as well. And knowing that every time I go out, I will be stared at, pointed at, giggled around, whispered about-- it's sometimes enough to make me stay in. It's really not a bad thing--I'm just different, and I guess different is really intriguing. So I never feel like anyone is malicious or ill-intending in their gawking; just curious. However, it can get old. Sometimes I fantasize that I'm walking into Target to pick up a few things, and none of the other shoppers give me a second glance. Yep, that's what I daydream about. (Enjoy your anonymity the next time you stroll into Target, okay?)

Despite the things that are still--and will always be--challenging, I feel like I'm past the "just barely getting by" phase. Take today, for instance. I woke up around 8, and reluctantly poured myself out of my comfortable bed. I made some coffee and a matcha green tea-banana-yogurt smoothie before getting ready for my morning classes. On Saturdays I have older kids, which is a nice change from the high-octane kindergartners. I can just chat with these kids, and don't have to plan a bazillion games for them. But we played "Would you rather...?" which they seemed to enjoy, discussing whether it would be better to have no arms or no legs; to eat a bar of soap or drink a bottle of shampoo; to find true love or a million dollars; to be stranded on a desert island alone or with someone you hate. I cheered inwardly when a few of my rowdiest teenage boys said they'd rather find true love than a million dollars. I also taught them the terms "sugar daddy" and "sugar mama," which they thought were great, and I truly hope they're able to use those in conversation someday.

After teaching I made a salad with romaine, tomatoes, green grapes, sprouts, and balsamic vinaigrette. I read a book for a while and then two of my Taiwanese friends came over to see where I live. We talked for a few hours and they taught me some more Chinese. Next week I'll be visiting their family in Tainan for "Moon Festival" weekend, so any and all Chinese words I know will come in handy. When they left, my friend Amber and I headed to the gym we recently joined. I did some cardio and weights, and then we sat in the sauna for a while, surrounded by older Taiwanese women who chatted softly with each other. I think most of them only joined the gym to sit in the sauna, steam room and hot tub, because the machines and weights are usually people-free, but the locker room's always packed. I would appreciate it if they felt more compelled to keep their towels on, but again--I'm in the cultural minority on that issue. On my way home I stopped for some oolong tea at a tea shop. I was able to ask if they had oolong tea, and then ask for one glass with no sugar and just a little ice, all in Mandarin. I realize that's a very small and basic feat, but one I would have balked at 4 months ago.

Back at the dorm, I sauteed some scallops with onions, garlic, ginger, carrots, and peppers, and ate it while watching TV with my floormates. Now I'm just relaxing in my room and getting ready to get in bed with a book. It feels good to be able to begin to establish routines that my life recognizable again, while still enjoying the unique and special things about living in Taiwan. I'm finding it easier to observe and appreciate each moment, without having expectations on myself to live the way I used to--with my goals and to-do lists and motivation and self-inflicted stress. And I'm pretty sure that Target will still be there when I get home.

zoo/bicycle part 2

After enjoying the little zoo, we drove (scooters) to the coast, where you can rent bicycles from several shops to take up and down the coast. The trail is 24 km, but I think we only did 20 (round trip).

So many kinds of bicycles to choose from!
Filling up the tires for the journey!

This building is actually a garbage incinerator. Not too shabby...?
Helen and Daniel already walking their bike up the hill... hahaaa!
The Taiwan Strait
I'm talented... I can pedal and photograph at the same time! (Harlick was probably panicking--since he was in front, he had to control our balance--I was more focused on taking in all the beautiful scenery around me than driving in a straight line!)
A lovely rainbow bridge! There were three or four of them...

Taking a water break!Our bikes taking a break from our sweaty derrieres :-)

And Lonely Planet says there's nothing to see in Hsinchu!